MDF vs Plywood
Plywood is stronger, lighter, holds screws better and sags less; MDF is smoother, flatter, cheaper and paints far better. Use plywood for the parts that carry weight and screws, cabinet boxes and shelves, and MDF for painted doors, drawer fronts and panels. Many good pieces of furniture use both.
MDF vs plywood at a glance
| Compared | Plywood | MDF |
|---|---|---|
| Made of | Wood veneers glued in crossed layers | Fine wood fibres pressed with resin |
| Stiffness | High along the face grain | About half of plywood |
| Sag on long shelves | Low | High, and it keeps creeping |
| Screws in the face | Very good | Good |
| Screws in the edge | Good | Poor: pre-drill, use confirmats |
| Surface | Wood grain, may have voids | Smooth and even |
| Painting | Grain shows through | Excellent finish |
| Edges | Layers show | Smooth but thirsty, seal before painting |
| Flatness | Can warp a little | Very flat and stable |
| Moisture | Good, especially exterior grades | Swells; MR MDF is better |
| Weight, 3/4 in 4 × 8 sheet | 60–80 lb (27–36 kg) | about 90 lb (40 kg) |
| Cost | Higher | Lower |
Strength and sag
Plywood's crossed veneers make it about twice as stiff as MDF along the face grain, and it creeps much less under a load that stays for months. For shelves, that is the difference that matters most. A 3/4 in shelf, 10 in deep, loaded with hardcover books, stays flat to about 15 in in MDF, 22 in in pine plywood and 26 in in birch plywood. Try your own span:
Screws and joints
Plywood holds screws in its faces and its edges, so pocket screws, wood screws and glue all work. MDF holds well in its faces, but screws driven into its edges can split it. Pre-drill, keep screws at least 1 in from the ends, and use confirmat screws or dowels with glue for the joints of a cabinet.
Finish and paint
Here MDF wins clearly. Its surface is uniform, without grain or knots, so one coat of primer and two of paint give a factory finish. The cut edges absorb paint: seal them first with diluted PVA, shellac or a filler primer. Plywood shows its grain through paint, and its edges show the layers unless they are edge banded or covered with a solid wood strip.
Weight, cutting and dust
An 18 mm sheet of MDF weighs about 40 kg (90 lb), more than most plywood, which matters when you carry it alone. MDF cuts cleanly without tear-out, but makes very fine dust: wear a dust mask and use dust extraction. Plywood can splinter on the exit side of the cut; tape the line or use a fine-tooth blade.
Which to use for each part
| Part | Better choice | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Cabinet boxes | Plywood (or melamine) | Screws in edges, lighter |
| Shelves | Plywood | Far less sag |
| Painted doors and drawer fronts | MDF | Flat, smooth, paints well |
| Painted built-in panels | MDF | Finish |
| Bathroom and laundry | Plywood or MR MDF | Moisture |
| Drawer boxes | Plywood | Strength, lighter |
For particle board and melamine as well, see plywood vs MDF vs particle board. Whatever you choose, our plans and calculators work with any sheet:
Frequently asked questions
Is MDF stronger than plywood?
No. Plywood is about twice as stiff along its face grain, holds screws better, especially in its edges, and sags far less under a long-term load.
Is MDF cheaper than plywood?
Yes. A sheet of MDF usually costs noticeably less than cabinet-grade plywood of the same thickness.
Which is better for kitchen cabinets?
Plywood or melamine for the boxes, which carry weight and screws; MDF for painted doors and drawer fronts, which need a smooth, flat surface.
Can MDF get wet?
Standard MDF swells where water reaches it, and the swelling does not go back. Use moisture-resistant (MR) MDF in kitchens and bathrooms and seal every edge.